To prevent much carbon buildup. I mix about 3oz acetone to 10 gallons of fuel, have carbs adjusted right and good flow in and out of the engine, and it'll be good. Works with the B&S 8horse I have in a little tractor. Adding about a quart of toulene to the fuel mixture and it doesn't bog down in the thick grass anymore. I add the toulene and 1oz acetone to the 3gal tank before adding fuel so it mixes as I add the fuel. I should probably check cylinder head temps using straight fuel and 'my' mixed fuel so I know I'm not burning stuff up!I heard of a guy who used Jet Fuel in a cushman cart. He fried his engine, but it ran pretty darned fast!
An old-timer once showed me how to clean carbon off of pistons with just an oven and ice water.Using an old oven (not the one you cook food in!), heat the parts up to 350-400 degrees then pull them out and spray ice water on the carbon. Wear safety glasses (along with thick gloves) as the carbon will 'pop' right off the pistons.If you don't have access to an old oven, try GM's Top End Cleaner or Mopar's Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Both are designed to work with the engine running and up to temp, but it's worth a shot on dissassembled parts. To prevent much carbon buildup.
I mix about 3oz acetone to 10 gallons of fuel, have cabs adjusted right and good flow in and out of the engine, and it'll be good. Works with the B&S 8horse I have in a little tractor.
Adding about a quart of toluene to the fuel mixture and it doesn't bog down in the thick grass anymore. I add the toluene and 1oz acetone to the 3gal tank before adding fuel so it mixes as I add the fuel. I should probably check cylinder head temps using straight fuel and 'my' mixed fuel so I know I'm not burning stuff up!I heard of a guy who used Jet Fuel in a cushman cart. He fried his engine, but it ran pretty darned fast! Just go talk to any old baboon that has run big two stroke outboards for a lesson in de-carbing a running engine, often with Sea-Foam and just about as often with Yamaha decarb aerosol.I used to have to do it at least once a year in my old Suzuki 200 (carbed) and 225hp (injected) engines.
Here is how you do it. Bring the engine up to operating temperature and then have someone hold the throtle so as to maintain about 2000 RPM. As they do so spray the stuff into the carbs alternatively and sequentially so as to nearly stall the engine. As the can runs out spray it so heavy that it finally kills the engine. Then let the engine set for about 20 minutes. After that refire the engine and do not stand behind the exhaust, because you are not going to believe the crap that going to shoot out of it.And that is how you decarb a running engine from a guy who has done it dozens of times.PS, on edit: The reason for this was trolling.
Those engines would be run to the fishing grounds (normally an hour or two run) and then brought down to idle, where they would run all day long just chugging along dragging baits. It builds up a lot of carbon that is not burnt off by the run back to port. Do that weekend after weekend and the stuff really builds up, you have to decarb the engines often.
Of course today the big ones are mostly all 4 strokes and you rarely if ever see carbon build up in them like it does in the 2-strokes. Once you get them clean, if you polish the tops to as smooth and shiny as you can get them it will retard future growth of carbon buildup. Also, you always want to run the lowest grade octane fuel that your bike will allow. Start by getting it properly timed and tuned and then start with the lowest grade fuel available. If it doesn't ping (and a stock engine probably won't) then you are good to go.
If it pings, move up to the next grade. If you run higher octane fuel than is required by the engine, it will cause excess carbon buildup and expel more pollutants. The higher amounts of octane in premium fuel makes the fuel less volatile and it won't burn completely unless the compression in the engine is high enough to compress it more densely.
Thus high compression engines require more octane added to the fuel to eliminate the knock caused by preignition of the more volatile lower octane fuel. Absolutely no power is to be had by running higher octane fuel than an engine requires. In fact, all that it will cause is an insignificant power loss followed by more carbon and more pollution. I have a bead blaster.
Looks like many on the forum have done chambers and exteriors (but not threaded/machined surfaces!) with glass/plastic beads, so I am not terribly worried.but will be taping a LOT of things up. And yes I have a giant dessicating unit on the compressor, so the air will be very, very dry and filtered.Don't think I'll try anything but chemical on the pistons themselves, though; don't want to accidentally hit the side of the piston with the beads. Unfortunately my blaster can't use soda.
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Fortunately the pistons don't look even half as bad as the ones MCRider posted.
The first step in cleaning the cylinder head is getting access to the cylinder head. You may need to remove some other components first. Unhook the spark plug wire and secure it, removing any batteries if equipped. Remove the muffler, muffler guard and any other components that block access to the cylinder. If you're unsure how to remove the muffler, follow our. Cylinder head bolts near the muffler and exhaust port may be longer. Fallout 2 mods. To avoid confusion, prepare a template.
Draw a rough outline of the cylinder head on a piece of cardboard and punch holes for each bolt location. Then, remove the cylinder head bolts and insert them in the corresponding holes. Lift off the cylinder head. If the head sticks, strike it on the side with a nylon-faced hammer. This should loosen the cylinder head enough for you to gently lift if off the engine. NOTE: Do not pry off the cylinder head.
This can damage the surface of the engine block or the cylinder head. Remove and discard the old head gasket. Warning: Always wear protective eyewear and solvent-proof gloves when removing carbon. Ask your to recommend an all-purpose solvent that will not harm aluminum or plastic components or leave unwanted residues.
Place the piston at the top dead center so that the valves are closed. Then, scrape carbon gently from the cylinder head, using a wooden or plastic scraper. Take care not to dig the scraper into the aluminum. On stubborn deposits, use a putty knife, wire brush or steel wool, taking care not to bear down on the metal surfaces. Clean away the remaining carbon with solvent, using fine steel wool to smooth rough spots. You can also soak metal parts for up to 15 minutes to remove stubborn deposits. Scrape again, if necessary, to loosen stubborn grit.
Then, clean the area thoroughly with the solvent and set the head aside. With the piston still at the top of the cylinder and the valves closed, use the same method to remove carbon deposits from the piston and the end of the cylinder. Turn the crankshaft to open each valve, and carefully remove any visible carbon deposits on the valves and valve seats, using only a brass wire brush. CAUTION: Do not allow grit to fall into the valve chambers or between the piston and the cylinder wall. Inspect the valves and valve seats to see if they are cracked, rough or warped. Bring damaged parts to an authorized service dealer for inspection before reassembling the head. Using a scraper, solvent or both, remove any remaining carbon and residue left behind by the head gasket on the cylinder head and engine block.
Clean the surfaces thoroughly before installing the new head gasket. Any debris or oil left on the cylinder head or engine block may prevent a tight seal and cause eventual engine damage. Inspect the surfaces of the engine block, cylinder head and new head gasket to be sure they are clean.
Place the new head gasket in position on the engine block. Do not use sealing compounds.
Set the cylinder head on the head gasket, aligning the cylinder head with the gasket and the engine block. Remove each head bolt from its slot in the cardboard template.
Does Cleaning Piston Heads From Carbon Actually Do Anything Go
Then, insert the bolt in its original location, leaving it loose. Insert the other bolts in the same fashion. Make sure to attach any housings or brackets that are held in place by the head bolts. Hand-tighten the head bolts first, without using a wrench. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in increments, using a torque wrench (service part number 19393).
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Turn each bolt a few turns, then proceed to the next bolt until each bolt is just snug. For final tightening, use a torque wrench. Proceed in increments or roughly one-third the final torque. Consult your small engine manual for final torque specifications.
Note: Avoid tightening a single bolt all the way before tightening the other bolts. Uneven tightening is likely to warp the cylinder head.
If I use an intake valve cleaner that dislodges chunks of carbon from the intake valves or piston head, and they flow through to the exhaust, could they harm the catalytic converter?I'm interested in testing the efficacy of intake valve cleaners by inspecting the intake valves before and after using the product. The carbon buildup is mostly on the intake valves in my direct injection car. I'm concerned that the dislodged debris could cause harm down the exhaust line since they could be relatively large for a system designed for gases.I've thought of a few options:. This isn't actually an issue. Take off the exhaust before the cat or redirect it temporarily. Put a temporary, high flow air filter at the exhaust between the engine block and the cat.In number 2, would the reduction in exhaust resistance be OK?Number 3 would be very interesting to me to see how much debris was removed.
Some special air filters may be able to handle the high exhaust temperatures.Any suggestions? My understanding is the reason DI engines get carbon build-up on the intake valves is because the fuel (with it's detergent package) get sprayed directly into the cylinder, not on the back of the intake valve like in a 'normal' engine.So, adding a cleaner will get injected exactly the same way (giving the intake valve a miss) and will likely not have much effect on intake valve carbon. Assuming the cleaner is poured into the fuel tank. If you're spraying it directly into the intake, it will depend on the efficacy of the cleaner.
Does it actually perform as described?My understanding of why DI engines generate so much carbon (look at the back bumper above the exhaust pipe) is because combustion chamber temperatures are lower and fuel is not burned as completely.That's my understanding from when I looked into this a couple of years ago.Personally, I'd start by verifying that there is actually a meaningful problem to solve; i.e. How much buildup do you actually have on your intake valves. Any 'chunks' that end up on the converter honeycomb will not last long once the catalyst gets to 1200-1600 degrees F.I wouldn't worry. But you won't have meaningful results, either - as Tim Nevins posted the 'cleaner' won't be getting anywhere near the valves on a DI engine.The flip side is that DI engines have much worse carbon buildup on intake valves, specifically because the detergents and solvents in gasoline (or cleaners) never get close. The preferred method of intake cleaning is walnut shell blasting.
Just took the heads off my 96 Disco. I?m cleaning the top of the pistons & cylinder walls. Several questions:I started spraying Purple Power Degreaser on the cylinder walls and piston heads and let it sit over night. The following day I used a Scotch Brite pad (for delicate surfaces) and scrub it down to remove most of the grease and carbon build up. Then I used carb cleaner for some of the tougher carbon build up.
In any case, I noticed the piston head is slightly discolored where the degreaser pooled(sat) over night. Is this anything I need to worry about?Is the CRC Brakleen (red can) safe to use on the pistons (by the way what is the difference between the red and green can? They are both non chlorinated)? I still have some stubborn carbon build up on the piston heads I?m trying to remove.
Any other suggestions?Once the pistons and cylinder walls are clean, should I lubricate the cylinder walls with a light coat of motor oil to prevent a?dry? I'll fly out and meet you guys!!! I laughed when i read this.SYUGG - just put your crap together!!! Coincidentally, I was talking to a friend the other day about what cleans engine parts best what and what to use and on and on.Back in the day, he used a vaccuum line from a carburator to suck in tranny fluid. Chuggady blubbady chuggady. While keeping it at a high idle.
After the 20 minutes of cheech and chong smoke fest in his driveway, he claims that thing ran better than ever.i donno. No chemical can do to those things what proper maching is designed to do - or renewing parts for the love of moses. Drop your pan and do bearings, pistons and rings. It'll be better than purple power. Dude, you get a thousand bazillion good guy points and an equal amount for being willing to learn.I apologize for being harsh-think of it as tough love. I really do love these trucks and their owners. Think of it, we automatically have something in common!You'll be fine.
Be careful read labels, come here and ask lots of questions, use the search function. If you really, really get stuck, call me!You'll be fine and the next thing you know, I'll be complimenting you on being a quikc learner.Cheers,PT.
I have noticed that a common discovery when removing the cylinder heads is that there is a bunch of carbon build up on the pistons. If you go back and look at the pics of some of the HG threads you can always see which cylinder the gasket failed at because the top of that piston is clean. And that stirred a memory. Years ago the alt.rec.toyota newsgroup was a real happening place and there was a Toyota master mechanic named Rick that posted daily helping people with thier mechanical issues. Well, this guy posted once that his engine knocked and pinged and after it was all said and done it was established that the guy had so much carbon built up on his pistons that the combustion chamber area was reduced, causeing increased compression and thus the pinging.
What Rick told the guy to do was to get glass of water when the engine was at normal operating temp and use a vacuum line to let the engine suck a little water into the intake while the engine was running. The cold water hitting the hot piston broke the carbon free and cleaned the pistons, just like it does when a HG blows.I know there has also been talk about using Sea Foam, and I have used it, but has anybody heard of using water for this? It worked for the guy on the news group, but for it to work the engine has to be hot. I was thinking that doing this before removing the cylinder head might make the job go a little quicker if the piston tops were already clean.
Any thoughts? I have noticed that a common discovery when removing the cylinder heads is that there is a bunch of carbon build up on the pistons. If you go back and look at the pics of some of the HG threads you can always see which cylinder the gasket failed at because the top of that piston is clean. And that stirred a memory. Years ago the alt.rec.toyota newsgroup was a real happening place and there was a Toyota master mechanic named Rick that posted daily helping people with thier mechanical issues. Well, this guy posted once that his engine knocked and pinged and after it was all said and done it was established that the guy had so much carbon built up on his pistons that the combustion chamber area was reduced, causeing increased compression and thus the pinging.
Does Cleaning Piston Heads From Carbon Actually Do Anything Lyrics
What Rick told the guy to do was to get glass of water when the engine was at normal operating temp and use a vacuum line to let the engine suck a little water into the intake while the engine was running. The cold water hitting the hot piston broke the carbon free and cleaned the pistons, just like it does when a HG blows.I know there has also been talk about using Sea Foam, and I have used it, but has anybody heard of using water for this?
Does Cleaning Piston Heads From Carbon Actually Do Anything Work
It worked for the guy on the news group, but for it to work the engine has to be hot. I was thinking that doing this before removing the cylinder head might make the job go a little quicker if the piston tops were already clean. Any thoughts? I'll add my two cents that, with the current exchange rates, are probably only worth one cent! But since Robbie posted right above, I'll say that when he was doing the HG on my rig he noted that the pistons looked pretty clean from carbon deposits.
Now, of course there was the visible carbon color and carbon coating but there was really no buildup that would cause compression or combustion to change any at all. We speculated that the BG44K I use so regularly was responsible for keeping them clean. In fact everything from the combustion chamber to the exhaust manifold to the turbo and turbo down tube was remarkably clean.
Interestingly, the intake manifold was by far the filthiest part of my rig which was why I right away added my catch cans.Keep in mind that I pm'ed my headgasket so there wasn't the full out failure of water gushing in to strip-clean the combustion chambers. Also, keep in mind that water is not at all compressible and pouring it into the engine is extremely risky in my mind. IOW, I would not risk any damage when something like BG 44K seems to work extremely well everywhere from the injector to the tailpipe!!! I hope this helps.
I just bought a squirt bottle to do water carbon removal.I read that you use hot water so not to damage the valves with hot/cold temp change.I will be using a mist of water to do the carbon removal through the PCV and brake booster hose.I have used Seafoam once and Deep Creep twice in through the PCV this week and did a Seafoam piston soak today and it smoked like I have not used Seafoam in years. Major buildup from running with no O2 and leaking stem seals.As from the hot coolant in the cylinder has removed carbon, cold water must do the job.I just want to know how you know when all the carbon is gone?I hope it reduces the NOx too. My intake runners were pretty clean after doing several seafoam treatments. I have used it on all my cars, my Chevy that had run mobile 1 and good gas barely smoked. The cruiser smoked alot. I purposely drove to work early one morning and it smoked for 3 blocks. I had people high beaming me think my car was on fire.Personally I don't think it's snake oil.
It works for me. I also used it on a brush to help remove the carbon on the valve cover.When I pulled my valve cover I was amazed how clean the intake runners were. I remember my old 22RE looking like a black cave with stalagmites.
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